Sunday, July 15, 2012

The Sixth Sense

Recently (on July the 8th) I celebrated my 1 year in country, a pretty noteworthy milestone if I do say so myself.  I, along with the other volunteers in my group, was able to celebrate this anniversary on holiday, gallivanting around South Africa, as we just finished our school’s winter vacation.  I had a lovely, jam-packed, fun holiday…

I started things off on the right foot by traveling with the one and only Nitcholas Dippner and his family.  We began our adventure by driving through Kruger National Park.  We were lucky enough to spot all of the big five (the lion, the elephant, the buffalo, the leopard, and the rhinoceros).  Mr. Dippel was brave enough to teach Nick, Evan, and myself the art of stick shift driving, which we all of course mastered in minutes, minus the one bush that I encountered...  We made friends with some lion cubs and of course, the hard to find impala.  Next we journeyed to Hazyview/Graskop where we enjoyed the scenery of the Three Rondavels, God’s Window, and the pot holes.  Last, but certainly not least, we found our way to Swaziland.  In Swaziland we went to a beautiful glass-blowing studio and some shops supporting local women’s crafts.  We were even able to watch a traditional Swazi dance after eating a traditional Swazi dinner.  Following my trip with the Dippel family (thank you for a magnificent time!), I headed off to another volunteer’s (Colin) site.  During my brief time at Colin’s, we worked on a puzzle with his host sisters, which I forgot how much fun puzzles could be; I caught up on some much needed laundry; and we watched Generations.  The vacation continued for a few days just outside of Johannesburg with my family away from home – the Beddy’s.  I was able to use Skype and catch up with the family, gossip with Chibby, and meet my favorite new nephew, Benjamin.  Before leaving, Sue and I enjoyed the wonder that is Sandton City, browsing in more shops than I thought humanly possible.  Next on the list was GTOT (yes, another Peace Corps acronym: general training for trainers).  The latest Peace Corps Education Class – SA26 – arrived on the 12th (welcome to South Africa!!), and will hit the ground running with cultural, language, and technical training.  I have been selected to help with their training, so in order to prepare, all of those helping had a mini training for 3 days just outside of Pretoria.  It was nice to see old faces, and to catch up with volunteers who I usually don’t get the opportunity to see.  It was also nice to meet the new LCFs (the language and cultural facilitators) and to see some of the staff who had made my class’ training so great.  After training, it was back to Pretoria for the final stretch of vacation.  During the last week I went to Soweto with Nick and his family before they departed for America.  We went to the Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum, which was very moving.  The museum honors Hector Pieterson and recounts the 1976 student uprising against instruction in Afrikaans, specifically June 16, in Soweto.  This museum explained a lot of the background of the Apartheid and its relation to the school system, something that I found very interesting as I am working in the schools here.  For the rest of the week, and for our final days in Pretoria, much ice cream (thank goodness that Ellen has a sweet tooth just as big as mine), pizza, and general unhealthy food was eaten, but we did a lot of shopping, walking, and running to make up for it.  My last night in Pretoria was spent at the delicious News Café with Kelsey and her parents.  Traveling back to site was long – about 8 hours from the time the taxi pulled out of Bosman to the time I reached my ever so dusty rondavel – but I am very happy to be back.

Vacation was wonderful.  It made me realize just how much I am looking forward to seeing my own family in December.  It made me reflect on how many lifelong relationships I have made in my time here thus far.  It also brought me back to site feeling refreshed and reenergized, ready to work again.  It was so nice to come back to everyone in the village and of course my loving Butch, who was very excited to see me. 

Now, onto the real purpose of this blog post…In order to commemorate my 1 year in country, I have decided to do something very similar to an assignment I had back in high school.  One of my favorite teachers during high school was my grade 9 social studies teacher.  As he taught his unit on The First World War, he had us write from the perspective of a soldier experiencing trench warfare, using the five senses to fully explain what was happening.  This assignment was so much fun for me (yes, I’m a bookworm, but still); I was learning and I was able to be creative. I even went so far as to look up British lingo to include in my paper.  So, in order to celebrate my 1 year in country, I am going to do something comparable in hopes that you, my faithful readers, have a better understanding of life in the village and my life as a Peace Corps Volunteer in South Africa.  Enjoy!

  1. Hearing:
·         I often hear “Naledi!” or “Meghan!” yelled at the top of the children’s lungs in my village.  Whether I am running by or simply walking to the tuck shop, the kids yell my name.  After a year I have not become boring to these kids, and their enthusiasm at seeing me has certainly not become old.  It continuously warms my heart, as well as my ears.
·         In my village I hear a lot of music, all of the time.  On the typical day, it is traditional music, such as Xitsonga music.  My host brothers enjoy house music, which they like blaring as they do their household chores.  On Friday nights and Saturday nights the shabeens play house music until midnight or so, lulling me to sleep.
·         I hear all sorts of animals.  Goats that I often cannot differentiate from crying children.  Roosters crowing at 4:30 in the morning, ready to start the day whether you like it or not.  Dogs barking and howling, fighting over leftover pap and meat.
·         Despite having been here for a considerable amount of time, I still hear entire Xitsonga and/or Sesotho conversations which I cannot decipher.  Sometimes the women speak so quickly, I feel like my head is spinning.
·         I hear taxis (khombis) honking their horns, calling out to the people in their homes in order to pick up more passengers.  These drivers like their khombis full, and I mean full.  It’s like we are sardines in those things.
·         In town, or in places where people don’t know me, I hear “mulungu” or “legkoa,” meaning “white person.”  While it may not seem bothersome or offensive the first five times, it gets a bit tiring after a year. 
·         I hear marriage proposals, and get this, sometimes baby proposals.  Men ask how much lobola they need to pay for me in order for me to accept their offers.  When I tell them that Americans don’t have lobola, they apologize profusely for me, saying “shame.”
·         Many people in my village tell me that I can never return to America, that I must remain in Lekgwareng forever.

  1. Sight:
·         I have two favorite sights in my village, which is one of the things I will miss most about Africa – the sunrise and the sunset.  There is nothing quite like running into the sunrise or into the sunset.  Both are breathtakingly beautiful.
·         Another sight I wake up to and go to sleep to is that of hardworking women.  I usually wake up to my host mother sweeping our compound or making a fire or cooking that day’s pap.  I usually head off to bed with my host mother helping my host brothers with school work.  Women around here run the show.
·         I see my students crammed three to a desk, ready and eager to learn.
·         I see bugs of all shapes and sizes, often trying to share my rondavel with me.  No thanks. This town aint big enough for the two of us.
·         I see beautiful traditional dress – women and men dressed head to toe in their unique cultural wear. 
·         Along with the traditional dress, I see colorful beading made by Xitsonga and Sesotho women, some of which I have bought for myself.
·         I see women carrying massive amounts of items on their heads each day – bundles of wood, buckets full of water, laundry, pots, and the list continues.  They never cease to amaze me, never faltering or dropping what is on top of their head.  One time my host mother carried my suitcase, bursting at the brim, on her head to the bus stop.  I have tried, unsuccessfully, carrying many a item on top of my head.
·         Before bed each night, and as a general bonding time with my host family, I watch “Generations,” South Africa’s greatest soapie.  Things are heating up as Noluntu carries Senzo’s baby, and Khetiwe brews with jealousy over MaRuby and Xolani.

  1. Touch:
·         As I work with my Grade R learners on SOUNS, the literacy program, I feel them grabbing at my feet or touching my arm.  Despite being here for so long, the kids are still convinced that I somehow feel different.
·         Along with people trying to feel my skin, people are often touching my hair.  They cannot believe that I do not get my hair relaxed.
·         I constantly feel dusty.  Dust is everywhere, and it is just a part of life here in South Africa.  When I do my washing, the water is usually brown once I am finished.
·         One of my favorite things since arriving to the village is walking around barefoot.  I like feeling the sand underneath my feet, and on summer days I like the warmth of the pavement just outside of my house.
·         My favorite feel in the summer is the refreshing cold water of my bucket bath.  In the winter, the bucket bath doesn’t feel quite as nice, usually requiring 2 kettles of hot water to make it bearable. 
·         I love the hugs I get when I get back from a vacation.  My host mother and host brothers are always so happy to see me, as I am them, when I return home.

  1. Smell:
·         In the morning and at night I smell fires burning.  In one area of my village, there is no electricity, so fires are required for cooking food, providing heat, and warming up bath water.  Luckily for me, electricity is available in my household.  Still, my host mother makes a fire each day for cooking pap and preparing bath water.
·         Something that has not changed from America is one of my favorite smells – fresh laundry.  The smell is especially sweet here without the luxury of a washing machine.  On average, my laundry takes anywhere from 3-4 hours, something the people in my village find quite amusing.  They can wash quickly, and effectively, usually in half the time that it takes me.
·         When the floors are redone, there is the distinct smell of cow dung for a few days.  While the smell isn’t exactly enjoyable, the patterns the women make are quite beautiful.
·         During the summer months especially, the pit latrine can develop quite the pungent smell.  I think when I’m back in the states I’ll be able to swim many lengths at a time without coming up for breath thanks to the pit latrine.

  1. Taste:
·         Pap.  Bagobe.  Vuswa.  Pap is the staple food here.  Sometimes pap is eaten 3 times a day – soft porridge for breakfast, pap and beans for lunch, and pap and chicken for dinner.  When I first arrived, I mistook pap for mashed potatoes, and requested a heaping full.  Needless to say I soon realized my mistake; these were some strange mashed potatoes.  I enjoy pap occasionally, maybe once or twice a week at the schools.  Pap goes well with gravy, and is rather filling.
·         Magwinya is my favorite discovery in South Africa so far.  Magwinya, also known as vetkoek or “fat cakes,” have absolutely no nutritional value, but are quite delicious.  Comprised of flour, a bit of sugar, a bit of salt, and yeast, fat cakes are deep fried in oil and served.  I limit myself to 2 a week for obvious reasons as the name implies, but oh do I savor those 2…
·         Limpopo is known as the Eden of South Africa.  I feel very fortunate to have been placed in Limpopo as a volunteer (sorry to my friends in the Northern Cape and Northwest).  My backyard has a guava and a pawpaw tree.  Other fruits I enjoy on a daily basis include bananas, avocados, grapefruits the size of your head, and oranges.  I have never tasted fruit so fresh at such a cheap price (I can get 7 bananas for about R10 or $1.25).
·         During the summer time, cold drink (aka soda) saves me.  Water is consumed, obviously, but nothing is quite as refreshing as cold drink during 112 degree weather.
·         Whenever I go to town and meet up with other Peace Corps Volunteers our usual hangout is Wimpy’s.  Wimpy’s is a fast food restaurant/chain all over South Africa.  I would compare Wimpy’s to the McDonalds or the Wendy’s of America.  My favorites at Wimpy’s are their milkshakes and coffee.  We have since moved on to bigger and better things, but Wimpy’s will always have a special place in my heart.  We also like going there since all of the wait staff knows us by name.
·         This section would be wanting if I did not touch on the traditional beer that is served at weddings and funerals (really at any type of large get together) in South Africa.  I am not a fan of the traditional beer as it almost tastes like, for a lack of a better description, bad bread yeast.  The people here go gaga over it for some reason or another, and it’s something you have to try if you visit.
·         Since coming to South Africa, I have been forced to learn how to cook and bake (I didn’t think I could survive off of peanut butter sandwiches for 2 years).  Most of what I eat I cook, and I have improved tremendously from my microwave dinners in college (shame for no microwave…).  My specialties include Mexican omelets, pasta with homemade pasta sauce, homemade pizza, chicken, and chips.  I have also gotten really good at making banana bread, a favorite of my host family.

  1. Ubuntu:
·         I had to include a “sixth sense” in this blog.  Aside from it providing the title for this post, I really couldn’t fit this in any of the other senses.  It needs its own category.  Ubuntu, as I have written about before, is the idea that I exist because you exist; I am you because you are you.  Since I have arrived in South Africa and at my site, I have felt welcomed by mostly everyone I have met.  Whether I am in town, at site, or traveling, I feel ubuntu in the air.  This sense of belonging and being welcomed makes my time here so special.  I will be forever grateful for ubuntu.

This last year has been a great one.  It certainly has not been without its challenges, but then again what is?  I feel that I have grown tremendously and have done some real good thus far.  Peace Corps Volunteers always say that “the days are long, but the months are quick.”  I definitely agree with this statement.  Sometimes days feel like they are endless, but months go by in the blink of an eye.  I hope that this next year+ is equally, if not more successful, and that I can continue to strengthen the relationships I have made and meet more wonderful people.  I hope that as I continue in my Peace Corps service, you continue to follow my journey through my blog!

Le Rata,
Meg :)

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